Babbling Brooklyn

Month

September 2011

36 posts

Subway karaoke

More carriage-based Karaoke today, as four bums in their fifties burst into a very credible barbershop routine of The Temptations’ classic “My Girl”. I was careful to check around the carriage to see the reactions of my fellow passengers today. As you might expect, the tourists were grinning, filming, singing along, while the residents remained po-faced, windowgazing into the black.

I tried to not to smile. It was impossible. How long before I’m over it? Not for a while, here’s hoping.

Sep 30, 2011
But the friends we do have are really great.

I guess because we appreciate them more but also because we meet people we wouldn’t in London. New York is a pretty transient city, lots of people coming and going and more people in town than we realised at first. So just a few people that I’d like to mention personally;

Ed: Friend of Max’s from breakdancing. Claim to fame- knowing or knowing of every breakdancer on the UK hip hop scene. Fun, open-minded, free-spirited and great to have around. Always livens things up and doesn’t take himself too seriously. And I’m glad I met him, cos I don’t think I would have done had we been in London with a bazillion other people to see and hang out with. Son blog 

Amy: Housemate. Always looking on the bright side, positive and has a great smile. Masterchef and lover of all things ‘fall’ (especially spiced cider!)  I’m glad we got to know you and I hope we stay in touch. Her amazing cooking blog is here 

Paddy: buy us a drink! But seriously, it’s been great finding old friends in a new city.

Nantara: You have taken us to some amazing places and we can’t wait to try your seven layer dip ;-)

And last but not least, Nem.

Witty, intelligent, fun and seriously funny, you have been a well of knowledge and given us so much great advice. But most of all you’re always there for us. Bringing round late night Chinese or laughing in our faces about us trying to move a mattress into someone’s house before we know them, you always know how to put a smile on our faces. Hope we can return the favour. You should write a blog!

The last few days have been trying (as Max said, more to follow). Big thank you to the Sathers, Chaplins, Elizabeth and everyone else who has been so supportive. It means alot.

p.s We haven’t forgotten our friends in the UK. We love you all too.

Sep 29, 2011
“Pastrami - the most sensual of all the salt cured meats” —Jerry Seinfeld
Sep 29, 2011
Shana Tovah

Right below Steph’s offices is Ben’s Jewish Delicatessen, an NY institution. The smell of bagels and knishes waft up through Steph’s window while she works, mingling with the scents in her office of cashmere, patchouli and victory. The restaurant was first built in 1926, before being rebuilt in 1996 by the original builder’s son. Inside the place is rammed with fat cats in power ties, almost exclusively men, putting away enormous pickles, complimentary coleslaw and homecut fries. We had to go.

I ordered a burger with hot pastrami. That’s literally all there was. From top-to-bottom it went bread-mustard-pastrami-beef-bread (the mustard was my own addition). Steph had chicken soup with a dumpling. Neither of us regretted it.

Around the walls of the dining room, in gold writing on the dark wood panels they have carefully stencilled the following joke:

A couple go out to dinner at a local Jewish delicatessen one evening. They are surprised to see a Chinese waiter approach their table. To their complete astonishment, the suave Asian greets them and takes their order in perfect Yiddish. After the meal they ask the proprietor: “A Chinese waiter in a Jewish deli?! Speaking perfect Yiddish?! How so?!”

“Shhh!” The proprietor responds. “I’ve told him that I’m teaching him English!”

Steph didn’t get it. Must be a Jewish thing.

Happy New Year.

Sep 29, 2011
We have no friends

In London, on any given Friday I have a phone book full of people to call to see what they’re up to. From those I get through to, the answers fall into one of only a few categories: pub, club, gig, staying in, not in town. In New York, Steph and I have no friends. There’s no one to call. We have no recourse, there’s no fall back position, there’s no safety net if plans fall through or don’t materialise. We don’t know the good spots to go, we have absolutely no chance of bumping into anyone we know.

As it turns out, this is a brilliant situation to be in. We’re finding amazing things to do, that don’t necessarily involve drinking. On Saturday, for the first time in my life I went to an improv comedy night. It was fantastic. On Friday AND again on Sunday we went to Dumbo Arts Festival, a sixteen block area full on installations, projections, light sculptures, hidden art galleries and strange goings-on. We make our own fun; fun that we’d never have in London.

When I get back to England, I hope we don’t forget this mentality. I hope we can find similar sorts of things to do, and I hope our friends come with us.  

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Mary Poppins

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Max fanning a wind sensitive LED installation

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Projection mapping under the Manhattan bridge

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365 day colour journal. Each day for a year the artist chose a colour that best represented his mood.

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Balloon sculpture on the waterfront

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Amazing bubble machine with weird projections in the background

Sep 26, 2011
So are you excited then?

In the weeks before I left for these distant shores, the question I was asked most frequently by my friends was “So are you excited then?”. It’s not a brilliant conversation starter at the best of times, especially when the answer from my end was usually “Frankly, no.” Steph advised me to just smile, and say yes, but my face betrays my emotions way too easily to get away with that. My standard response evolved into:

“Well, yes, but I think the next month or so is going to be a real struggle.”

I had little idea how right I would be. Don’t get me wrong, I was riding the bus up Madison Avenue today looking out the window with an idiotic grin on my face (and you know that you would too). But all of the stuff that we’ve been through with housing (of which more to follow), and difficulties with phones, and banks, and furniture and weirdos I met on couchsurfing.com makes me think that New York hasn’t exactly welcomed us with open arms. It’s playing hard-to-get. It’s winking at us from across the bar and then ignoring us when we go over to start a conversation. It’s happy to be bought drinks, but then it starts checking it’s Blackberry while we’re making small talk. It hasn’t yet got pissed and poured said drinks over our heads, but you never know which way the evening is headed.

The point is, it hasn’t been easy. But we’re sticking it out, Steph and I, and we’re doing it as a team. We pick each other up when the other is down, and we’re never down at the same time. Kind of like a see-saw. Today, without thinking I started writing an email to someone in the first person plural. We even opened a joint bank account today.

I’m not going to get all smushy on a public blog, but we have been through of all this, and we’re even closer as a result. That’s something to be excited about.

Sep 26, 2011

Click on each of the photos to see the slideshow and captions to explain each one. 

And last but not least, Nem, Max and I sitting down to a delicious home-cooked Pasta Puttanesca in Nem’s beautiful apartment.

Go team NY! Finally starting to feel settled :-)

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Sep 23, 2011
Sep 23, 2011
So this is New York...

Today I saw a man repeatedly hit another man with a baseball bat.

I had just missed my bus, twice. I missed it once, then ran after it down the street to the next bus stop, desperately clutching the clothes horse, frying pan, salad spinner and mixing bowl I’d just purchased from the Salvation Army. The bus pulled away again just as I reached the tail lights.

Standing there, sweaty in the soupy air, I caught a disturbance in the corner of my eye in the Halal meat shop across the road. Four or five Chinese chefs were furiously hustling two black men out the door. The men were resistant, remaining in the doorway of the shop, keen to verbally settle whatever difference they’d had. At this point, they were close to leaving and it could have gone either way. But it only takes one punch.

Something is said, some last straw, and I watch one chef at the back of the group just lose it. He charges, head down. One of the men trips out the door, leaving the other one trapped inside. He’s pressed up against the glass with fists pouring in from all five men in white. He fights his way out, but the scrap continues out on the sidewalk. The escapee has his fisticuffs up; as the chefs close in he’s shouting “Chill? Chill my ass! Chill my ass! CHILL MY ASS!”. There’s a chef on the floor, there’s running battles, there’s some flying kicks. They’re fighting in the street.

I just stand there gawping. Unconsciously, I’ve brandished the clothes horse in front of me as a shield; the salad spinner is ready in my other hand should projectile kitchenware suddenly be required.

At some point my bus must have arrived, but engrossed as I was in this impromptu street theatre, I don’t remember stepping on. I just remember the bus driver next to me watching and laughing. When he’s done laughing he bursts into song “So this is New Yoooork!! Concrete Jungle lalalala” and grins at me. Now separated from the reality of the situation by the windscreen I can see the funny side. But then the baseball bat appears. 

The black guy retreats, his situation weighing in. Walking backwards, he trips on the kerb of the island crossing. Now he’s on his back in the middle of the intersection, all traffic stopped, everyone staring. He’s on his back in a street, and there’s a Chinese chef, angry and armed, standing over him. The hits begin, not full home-run swings, but strong enough to feel them on his legs and thighs. 

“Where’d the bat come from?” I ask the bus driver.

“Where’s the police?!” He responds.

I look back and somehow the black men are escaping together up the road, taking a few more thwacks as they go. The satisfied chefs pull back, the bat-wielder fist bumping a passing cyclist as they return to their restaurant stronghold.

Our bus pulls away and I take a seat; the lady next to me knits a yellow bonnet. We drive on.

The weirdest part of this story for me is that when I told Steph her first response was “Well why didn’t you do anything?”.

“You mean, why didn’t I get involved in a fight which included a baseball bat?”

“Well you could at least have told them to stop.” Brilliant.

Sep 23, 2011
The Big Bad World of Fashion NY

So I have been wanting to tell you all about my first day but just haven’t had a minute! So far, so brill. So I started my internship at House of Waris on Monday morning. Had no idea what to expect and was a little apprehensive as I arrived at the office. Click here to see the office. No, not Ben’s Kosher Restaurant, though maybe we could start making our own corned beef! 

We are on a floor with lots of other design studios who were all winners of the Council of Fashion Designers of America Incubator prize. I think they were all promising designers who CFDA decided to promote. This included giving them studio space. Waris’s studio is really lovely. It’s all dark wood and lots of trinkets from his travels, invites to parties pinned up everywhere and little bits of inspiration on mood boards around the room. Think it’s definitely the nicest office I’ve worked in so far! I will send some links to him and his work but just so you can see what he looks like, here’s him in The Sartorialist :-) Love this picture. Even though he looks kind of mean, if you know him you can seek a cheekiness in his eyes. He is the sweetest, most charming man but also completely on it in terms of his business. 

So, on my first day I was given the project of sourcing material for a new jewellery collection that we are doing in collaboration with APC. So I was running round the Fashion District sourcing the right kind of cord and the right kind of fittings. It was an amazing way to start exploring the area. Lots of designers have their studios in this area and so as you would expect, it’s brimming with bead shops, ribbon shops, fabric shops, little sewing shops. You name it, if it’s to do with fashion you could find it. 

So the first shop I went to was Mokuba a shop I knew about from working at Joseph in Paris. They have every single kind of trim imaginable (as you can see from the pic on their website). I picked up some black and red leather cord then headed to the next shop, Metalliferous on 46th St.

This shop is the ultimate jeweller’s dream. It is filled top to bottom with every possible metal fixture, fitting, clasp, charm and chain imaginable. The people who work there look like they never leave the office and all have really loud voices, shouting across each other, chatting to customers and suppliers whilst grabbing things out of boxes and totting up the totals. As you can imagine, for a newbie like me, I was totally out of my depth! Everyone else knew exactly what they wanted and how to get it and I was still standing there looking at everything with my mouth open. After a while one of the managers took great delight in showing me how everything worked, what clasps I should get and with what chain etc. Basically totally taking the piss out of my ignorance (but in a nice way) and I played along by making him think he was the omnipotent jewellery master. 

Once I had got all my goods back to the office, Waris and I decided on the cords and clasps that we liked and then I started making jewellery! I’ll show you my handiwork tonight. It was really fun and great to be creative and involved in the process. 

Next I hand-delivered a parcel to a NY socialite in the West Village and had my first experience of a Penthouse. The lift went straight into her living room! I don’t know why I thought she might be there, of course she wasn’t, it was just her Spanish maid holding a giant dog by the collar. I did get a quick look in though, how the other half live!

Later in the afternoon we had some buyers from Dubai come and look at the collections (Waris mainly does jewellery but added a scarves line two seasons ago) so I was able to hear how buying appointments work. It was also the first time I had seen and touched the jewellery. Wow it’s just out of this world. Click here to see some examples of his work.

After folding all the scarves again neatly, I left the office at 7:30pm which I’m coming to learn is good by NY standards. Everyone works SUCH long hours here and people don’t take lunchbreaks (or they take them quickly at their desks). It doesn’t really work by set hours in fashion, it’s more just until the work is done.

Phew! So that was my first day. I’ll post more pics tonight! x

Sep 21, 20111 note
It ain't a beauty, but hey it's alright.

Click here to see our place on Google Street View and take a stroll around our neighbourhood. We’re in the grey building above Chanel’s Dance Club & Lounge. As you can probably guess, our proximity to Chanel’s Dance Club & Lounge was a major draw of renting the place.

Sep 20, 2011
Send us love

FYI, we are now at 

Apt. 1 

860 Atlantic Avenue

Kings County

Brooklyn, NY

11238

USA

Feel free to send letters, postcards, gifts and any spare furniture that you may have.

Sep 20, 2011
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Sep 19, 2011
Bed Stuy, Do Or Die

Still waiting on our house deal to go through, but if all goes well tonight we will be leaving Bed-Stuy, a neighbourhood that we’ve both grown an unexpected fondness for over the past week. I think because it contains the real elements of Brooklyn life that we had hoped to encounter as residents, rather than tourists. 

At first sight, it’s not the kind of area that we’d want our parents to know that we were living in. But it does have an unexpected softness. This morning I passed on the street an intimidating young man in a doo-wrap with a few gold teeth. Looking down to avoid eye contact I saw that a young girl of about 5 years old was holding his hand. She wore a pink rucksac, and her hair glittered in the morning sun. They were chatting affectionately as he walked her to the school bus, and I reconsidered my initial reaction to his presence.

Then in the corner shop, I saw a flat-capped man of planetary proportions popping his hip absent-mindedly to Justin Timberlake as he picked out a carton of juice for the day ahead. I had to quickly stifle my giggles.

The best example was last night, when after another stressful day waiting on our elusive landlord we moved to a new homestay, just around the corner from our last. We met the cat and dumped our bags before taking a bottle of Corona up to the roof to watch the sun set over uptown Manhattan. The spectacle was accompanied by calypso music coming clear from the street four floors down. Poking our heads over the parapet, we saw four old-timers squared around a dominoes table on the sidewalk below. The music was coming from a ghetto blaster they had set up next to their evening game. When we passed them on our way out to dinner later, the CD had been changed to James Brown; I wanted to give each one a high five, but I settled for a respectful nod. After all, we’re still tourists, not yet residents.

Sep 19, 2011
Cross your fingers!

So we’re hopefully in the final stages of moving into an amazing loft space, please all cross your fingers for us! Big thank you to the Sather & Chaplin families and especially to Karen and Fred (Max’s aunt and uncle and guarantor) you have been absolute stars!

Did some more househunting today in case it falls through (you can never be too sure!) and saw some nice places so feel a bit better now-just want to be settled in our own place!

During our trip to the supermarket today we came across this big board of Polaroid pictures, which I naively thought was a lovely pictureboard of all their happy customers. Of course as Max pointed out (and the manager verified) it’s a Wall of Shame. When people are caught shoplifting, instead of calling the police, they take a photo of them and add it to the wall. I particularly like ‘I like Shrimp but don’t buy’. Shrimp? Really?!

Also a little snap of Max by his new car, just nonchantly sipping his Mountain Dew. Now that we’re in Bed-Stuy, the numberplate seems appropriate.

Thank you to everyone who’s said they like the blog! We’re having a good time writing it too and love to hear from you ;-)

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Sep 17, 2011
Lunch in the West Village.

The West Village is so pretty. It’s the only reason I can think of why I would want to earn lots of money (or just enough to buy a place there). Met Nem for lunch and we wandered around popping into little boutiques, stationary shops and best of all a pet shop(!) It’s leafy, green and full of beautiful people.

The pet shop was amazing, but obviously once you walk in, there’s no going back. It’s like a black hole and you have to tear yourself away to avoid accidental purchase of cute canines. 

Below are some of my favourites as well as a little documentation of our trip to Central Park yesterday which included MORE dogs! People in NY are obsessed with dogs and this guy was a professional dog behaviouralist. Like a dog whisperer, just chatting to the dogs and making weird clicking noises and whistling. Needless to say they were all totally docile, calm and didn’t make a sound. Magic.

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Nem’s impression of the cute sleeping dog.

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Oh he’s so handsome!

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It’s actually Lady from Lady and the Tramp, just wanna wrap her up in ribbon!

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Such a cutie but you can’t see him that clearly. You’ll just have to take my word for it.

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Like some geeky Specsavers advert ;-)

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The dog magician & pups.

Sep 16, 2011
Overheard in Bed-Stuy post office

- You got parcel tape?

- Nope

- Yes you do!!! This is a post office!

- You gotta go to a .99 store

- Ain’t no .99 dollar store up in here! That ain’t in my….umm…..my…..

- Jurisdiction?

- That ain’t in my jurisdiction! Damn!

Sep 16, 2011
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Sep 16, 2011
“I live in New York because it is the only place that I can really be alone.” —Greta Garbo
Sep 16, 2011
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Sep 16, 2011
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